From Concept to Completion
In a first floor workshop four goldsmiths are all at different stages in their respective projects. We wanted to find out what’s involved in the working day of a goldsmith.
Words & Photography: Supplied
The first floor workshop directly above The Ringmakers’ retail space is a hive of activity with four goldsmiths all at different stages in their respective projects: Olly is soldering links in a bracelet repair for a customer, Brent is drilling ‘seats’ in a shaped band into which he will later set seven stunning diamonds, Robert is rolling out gold for a bespoke pendant commissioned to celebrate a wedding anniversary, and Graeme is setting vivid Ceylonese sapphires into a ring for stock which will be on display in the shop by the end of the day.
This is a typical scene in the busy Stafford Street jewellery workshop where the individual goldsmiths, unlike in many big city workshops or factories, often complete the entire manufacturing process, from consulting with the customer in store and hand-drawing the design, to shaping the band and mount, setting stones and completing finishing work, themselves. This has allowed them not only to refine their skills in all aspects of the craft but it also makes them quite invested in each special piece. According to Brent, “It is possible to build a really good rapport with customers who appreciate the time we spend making sure the details are just right for each commission. It is gratifying and quite humbling when customers return over many years because of their faith in our ability to meet their needs.”
The added value of having a workshop staffed with goldsmiths attached to the shop is not lost on owner Brent White, who began his apprenticeship under previous owner Graeme Castle in 1993. “In a commercial environment where most product for sale is mass produced, the fact that we can respond in real-time to queries and our customers can put a face to the person who is making their jewellery is incredibly important in our business model. All aspects of design and manufacture are completed on-site, meaning that you achieve a result that is unique, and truly handmade, rather than constructed from mass-produced parts. This allows the goldsmiths to make an item that is exactly what you would like, rather than just ‘close enough’.”
Brent’s 26 years, and Graeme’s half-century in the industry mean that their customers benefit from a wealth of experience and tried and tested knowledge. Graeme is very highly regarded for his design and manufacturing skills, and has trained many jewellers in his time as a goldsmith. He has passed this mantle on to Brent who is relishing the opportunity to guide another young person as they enter the industry. Olly is about to start the fourth and final year of his apprenticeship and has flourished in the workshop environment. Learning the trade in a local business means that he is gaining detailed knowledge and practice in all aspects of jewellery manufacture. “It’s nice that the work is so varied because it means I am not doing the same thing over and over again,” says Olly.
Robert, who has recently joined the workshop team, has nearly twenty years’ experience as a goldsmith in South Africa, where he had the pleasure and challenge of completing some very high-end commissions. He is particularly skilled in working with platinum and making cluster rings using platinum wire-work is one of the aspects of jewellery manufacture he enjoys most. Robert is excited about his new role and the lifestyle the move to Timaru will afford his young family.
Brent’s wife, Aimee, manages the retail and financial side of the business, allowing him to focus his energy on the workshop and maintaining the steady work output that the large numbers of repairs, custom orders, valuations, insurance work and stock requirements demand. She enjoys her role and says, “We are so lucky to have a team made up of such friendly, enthusiastic people who genuinely enjoy serving the people of South Canterbury and beyond. The goldsmiths are able to work away happily upstairs knowing that our customers’ first point of contact in store is more often than not either Burnetta or Sophie, both of whom have recently undertaken Gemmological Institute of America (GIA) study to ensure their industry knowledge remains up-to-date. The three of us downstairs work hard to make sure the store is stocked with jewellery that caters to as many tastes and budgets as possible, and we love nothing more than seeing people leave the store delighted with their purchases.”
A notable recent success has been the official Timaru Penguins jewellery range, designed and manufactured by the team at The Ringmakers. Items from the range, which includes earrings, necklaces, bracelets, a charm and a ring, all available in sterling silver or 9ct gold, have been selling like hotcakes. They have found their way all over New Zealand and as far afield as Australia, the UK, Germany, Sweden, Holland, Denmark, Taiwan, the USA and New Caledonia. “Being a productive part of the local community is really important to us,” Brent explains, “which is one of the reasons we are so delighted with the success of the penguin jewellery range. For each item sold, we donate a portion of the proceeds to the Timaru Penguins group allowing us to support an incredibly worthwhile local initiative.”
Brent and team find their work richly rewarding and look forward to continuing to serve the jewellery lovers of South Canterbury.